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The Gas Mask They Rent You at Ijen Does Not Stop the Gas

The Gas Mask They Rent You at Ijen Does Not Stop the Gas

The mask handed over at the Ijen car park is a particulate filter, and sulphur dioxide is a gas. What the published testing says it stops, what the Indonesian observatory recommends instead, and the one place where the observatory and the health researchers flatly disagree.

12 min read
The Best Month for Etna Is Not August, and the Italian Data Says So

The Best Month for Etna Is Not August, and the Italian Data Says So

Italy's own monthly series puts the year's biggest share of foreign arrivals in Sicily in September, not August. August is the Italians' month. On a mountain whose summit runs 16 °C colder than the coast, that distinction decides more than the crowd.

9 min read
Five Years After the Lava Stopped: What a La Palma Volcano Visit Looks Like Now

Five Years After the Lava Stopped: What a La Palma Volcano Visit Looks Like Now

The volcano turns five on Saturday. La Palma is still deciding, week by week, which houses people may sleep in: 1,179 properties cleared in Puerto Naos, a road built across the lava, and a bill that would close the new ground permanently.

11 min read
Where You Can See Lava Right Now: Four Volcanoes, and Why Etna Is No Longer One of Them

Where You Can See Lava Right Now: Four Volcanoes, and Why Etna Is No Longer One of Them

Three weeks ago Etna belonged on this list. Its own bulletin now records degassing and no lava flow at all. Here are the four volcanoes with incandescent material on readings we could open today, and the three worth planning a trip around.

9 min read
The 2,900-Metre Rule on Etna Does Not Exist. Here Is What the Ordinances Actually Say

The 2,900-Metre Rule on Etna Does Not Exist. Here Is What the Ordinances Actually Say

Every operator and half the blogs on the internet repeat the same figure: above 2,900 metres on Etna you need a guide. It appears in no ordinance. What the acts regulate is a zone and an operational phase, and the number that matters is 2,500.

9 min read
Mount Etna Is Erupting and You Still Will Not See Lava

Mount Etna Is Erupting and You Still Will Not See Lava

Etna has been erupting since 6 August 2026, and the lava is in the Valle del Bove — on the eastern flank, behind an exclusion order, and out of sight of the cable car that most tours use. What the bulletins actually say, and what you will see if you go.

8 min read