Mount Agung by Moonlight from Besakih: Midnight Start, Crater Rim at Dawn

The walk starts at midnight, with flashlights the guide hands out, and for the next few hours the only light on the path is the one in your hand. The first stretch is easy. Past halfway it turns slippery, and the summit has to be worked for. At the top the sky goes from black to inky blue, then pink and orange, slowly. There are rocks to sit on up there, with the village roofs and the ocean a long way below, and breakfast is a hot drink and bread eaten in that position. After the sun is up the route continues around the crater. On the Besakih approach the way passes Pura Besakih, the mother temple of Bali and the biggest Hindu temple on the island, which looks out over the country as far as the sea. Anyone booking without the hotel transfer meets at 10.30 pm. The tour is private. Cancel at least 24 hours before departure for a full refund.