Barong Dance, Celuk Silver and the Batur View from Penelokan

The day opens with the Barong and Keris dance, the trance dance, which stages the unending fight between Barong, king of the spirits, and Rangda. The dancers know the story well enough to put jokes inside it, and afterwards you can have your photograph taken with them. Celuk comes next, the gold and silver village. The road is lined with workshops and display cases, and the stop includes watching a piece made from start to finish. You can buy, or have something made to your own design. Prices in the village are low. The Ubud Monkey Forest, whose full name on the welcome sign is the Padangtegal Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, is a patch of rainforest in the middle of Ubud, with monkeys, other animals and a temple complex in it. It matters to the village spiritually, and it also runs research and conservation programmes. Then up to Kintamani, 1,500 metres, cool by day and cold at night, damp enough to grow oranges and passion fruit. Every third day the main street fills with a market and with vendors who have travelled a long way for it. From Penelokan you look out at Mount Batur, the black rock spread below it, Lake Batur and the caldera. Lunch is an Indonesian buffet at a restaurant in Kintamani, with the volcano in front of you. Vegetarian food on request. Tirta Empul, at Tampak Siring, is the holy spring temple where Balinese have come for more than a thousand years to be purified. Tegallalang closes the day, with its rice terraces cut into the side of a valley.